Thursday, 21st September.
Had a hot shower this morning. It was sooooo goooooood.
Today was our rest day. We checked out of the hotel and checked
in at the refugio on the other side of town.
I spent part of the afternoon wandering around on my own, taking
photos, avoiding eye contact with the locals, buying pastries.
above: the cathedral at Burgos. The interoir of the cathedral is ornately decorated,
perhaps a little overdone. In fact, pretty much every surface is
carved or decorated in one way or another.
(sorry about the quality of these scans, I was a bit rushed and
blah blah blah I'm sure you don't care)
I ran into Barb and Noelle (or Noelle and Barb, I can't remember)
and we did some shopping. They had a high degree of need for some
waterproof trousers, and I needed a waterproof protector for my
backpack. We bought icecream, which was good but still not quite as
good as Logrono.
Back at the refugio, Richard and Geri the New Zealanders were
there. They hadn't heard from Uncle Howard, but they'd met people
who had heard of him, and he was a few days walk ahead.
In the early evening everyone at the refugio went on a tour of
Burgos on a "train"...one of those touristy contraptions that ferry
bored-looking tourists around a city at high pace. The commentary
was in Spanish, but the entertainment was in our carriage. There
was a whole bunch of lads carrying on as lads do, leaning out of
the carriage and taking photos of any even slightly good-looking
girl. Dave learned a new word: gwapa!
Once we had been returned to the refugio, we walked to a nearby
restaurant that offers a pilgrim's menu. (ie cheap) It was
essentially a one-woman show - a dynamic woman would take our orders,
cook the food, bring it out, and boss her father around, who was
manning the bar.
This woman took a real shine to Noelle. Especially after she
licked her plate clean. She fussed over Noelle, commented on her
rosy cheeks (obviously caused by drinking so much Spanish wine,
Noelle was told), guessing her age (16...uh, no!), and we were
convinced that pretty soon Noelle would find herself married off!
As far as we are aware, Noelle left the restaurant without being pledged
to marry any young Spanish boy.